Leaven-Worth-It

Can’t make it to Eurupe this year? Grab a friend and immediately round-trip to quirky Leavenworth, Washington, just a four-hour drive south from Vancouver, BC. From architecture to annual festivals, it’s been designed to mirror Bavaria, Germany in almost every charming way. In the summertime, pedestrian-only streets boom with travellers snacking on bratwurst and sipping beer on picnic benches, biergarten-style, against a stunning backdrop of the Cascade Mountains—or are those the Bavarian Alps? —Katie Nanton

Stay & Spa

But first, some history. How did Leavenworth transform from an American logging town to a Bavarian-culture alpine mecca? The answer lies in the early ’60s, when Leavenworth’s then-leaders decided to alter its appearance to boost tourism. The downtown core was fully renovated to mirror old-world-style Bavarian architecture and a series of festivals organized—it worked. Today, Leavenworth has just under 3,000 full-time residents within the city limits but welcomes around 3.5 million tourists annually. There are dozens of properties for them to choose from, including the booked-up-for-months luxury Posthotel, but Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort is one of the best. Situated a short drive away from busy downtown, the sanctuary on the edge of the Icicle River is also somewhat of an art-slash-nature retreat. Owned by the altruistic Icicle Fund—which has invested over $45-million in regional non-profits over the past 25 years, including local arts, cultural efforts, and indigenous initiatives—the 67-acre property has large-scale artworks dotted around the grounds, including a breathtaking Dale Chihuly blown-glass piece, Icicle Creek Chandelier. Don’t head home before indulging in the gift of time spent in nature; we recommend a golden hour perched riverside watching bald eagles fish as the sun sets on the Cascades. Retreat to the resort’s restaurant, O’Grady’s Pantry, for a casual dinner, or to the bar, The Grotto, for a cocktail. Travelling with kids? Release them into The Playbarn, a dedicated hut with table tennis, a pool table, and big-kid toys galore. Pro tip: Book into the excellent on-site Aspen Leaf Day Spa your first morning to set the vacay tone with an expert massage and out-of-this-world Ultimate Facial.

Savour & Sip

Leavenworth’s food scene is a mix of traditional-style Bavarian and more contemporary fresh and foraged Pacific Northwest fare. For the former, head to München Haus for juicy, char-grilled sausages—from the Big Bob Bratwurst to the Field Roast’s Veggie Wurst, there’s something for everyone—and what feels like a million dips to drizzle on top (Jalapeno Hornet, anyone?). For something non-Bavarian, slip into a booth at Yodelin to the tune of David Bowie’s “Rebel Rebel” on the speakers, sip on restorative Wild Halibut Bone Broth and dine on the Aloha Chicken Rice Bowl. We love that the kitchen shuns single-use plastic and Sunday live-music nights draw a crowd and packed backyard patio. For a pasta craving, the seasonal handmade stuffed pastas and rich ragus at Larch fits the bill—think cannelloni stuffed with foraged morel mushrooms, chicken, wild nettles and gruyere mornay sauce. Snack your way around town at The Danish Bakery for apple strudel, Das Sweet Shoppe for candies (and one of the oddest American treats we’ve encountered, Red Bull ice cream shakes) and South for a signature Basil Daisy margarita (order one to-go and they’ll pour and seal a can for you on the spot). For a refreshing bier flight on a hot summer’s day, bee-line to Icicle Brewing Company for a pint of tropical Alpenhaze Hazy IPA; sit either on the second-floor to drink your hops in a repurposed gondola or post up on the patio to people-watch. . 

See & Shop

For us, the bizarre charm of spotting a McDonald’s built with exposed-wood, Bavarian-style architecture and signage was a total thrill and simply wandering the downtown core is a sight to see all its own. For shopping, there are a handful of excellent boutiques akin to those found in bigger mountain towns such as Aspen or Whistler, such as Posy Handpicked Goods—think Baggu bags, artsy cards, and jewelry—and, a stone’s throw away, The Plant Ally. At this plant, tea, and herbal elixir store pick up a mini toque for your cacti, a Pepperonis watermelon plant or a lotus-flower tincture or latte. The holiday season is as big a deal here as it is in Bavaria, so don’t miss Kris Kringl for a dose of year-round Christmas or the popular Leavenworth Reindeer Farm to meet baby reindeer and Santa Claus (yes, even in the summer.) Switch gears from town to nature with a hike, of which there are plenty; we chose to leave straight from Sleeping Lady Resort on the flat, 1.5-kilometre Icicle Creek Nature Trail past the Leavenworth Fish Hatchery. With the flowing Icicle River and halcyon plants like Virginia bluebells and Saskatoon berries at our feet, it was just the right pace. For a more challenging incline hiking past maples, Ponderosa pines, and wildflowers, tackle the Icicle Ridge Trail Overlook for an almost-360-degree panoramic view at the top. Last but not least, look up the festival schedule to see what’s happening when you plan to visit—December’s Christmastown festival, and Oktoberfest, are the busiest times.