Formerly a little more "old school" in design, Café Boulud in the Four Seasons Hotel has been revamped into a cosy, inviting brasserie with a French countryside-inspired menu.
Think delicately textured quenelle de brochet (northern pike enveloped in a dumpling of sorts, with a cognac Nova Scotia lobster sauce), and chicken and potatoes cooked over the flames of a Rotisol (if you’re not in the know, that’s a top-notch rotisserie). We practically (but happily) had to roll ourselves off the luxe green-leather banquette after our indulgent meal.
Bravo, Boulud, bravo. —Karen Kwan
Café Boulud, Four Seasons Hotel, 60 Yorkville Ave., Toronto, 416-963-6000, www.cafeboulud.com
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