How do we love thee Boneta restaurant? Let us count the ways.
25 is the age of chef Jeremie Bastien (ex-Lumière), who wowed us with his elegant and refined dishes (green asparagus with comté cheese, pear and vin cotto, $15).
8 is the age that he started working in kitchens.
19 is the price of the lamb loin with English peas, potato gnocchi and arugula that has us licking our chops.
12 is the number of people it took to deliver the huge Charles Forsberg painting that presides over the bright and airy room.
5 is for the minutes in which we devoured a sublime grilled mackerel with fava beans and gremolata ($17).
3 is for Uby No.3, the fantastic French bargain ($28/bottle) sommelier Neil Ingram delivers on an ever changing list.
And 3 is the number of valets who patrol the street (and watch your car).
1 is the number of years on the clock until the restaurant must vacate its current premises.
And 1 is the address on West Cordova where you can count on a great time.
Boneta, 1 W. Cordova, 604-684-1844, www.boneta.ca
Closed Sunday/Monday; lunch Fridays only starting today.