想保持年輕、容光煥發的膚質，相信市面上沒有比視黃醇更受推崇的抗衰老成分了。由於視黃醇能促進膠原蛋白的增生、疏通毛孔並調節細胞更新，因此這種強大的成分受到護膚界的強烈推崇。但在另一方面，視黃醇的神奇功效常導致該成分被濫用，造成皮膚過度刺激。與棕櫚酸視黃酯和視黃酸等其他類別的視黃醇一樣，它是一種維他命A衍生物，常用於大眾護膚品中，以對抗細紋和皺紋。在這篇文章中，皮膚科專家將會詳細介紹如何將視黃醇添加至你的日常護膚步驟中，以及如何使用其他替代品來達至更年輕肌膚的效果。── Vivian Chung
「許多人首次使用視黃醇時犯的最大錯誤，就是用量過多。」委員會認證皮膚科醫生兼 Facet Dermatology創辦人Geeta Yadav醫生說，實際上只需豌豆大小的用量即可覆蓋整個面部。「視黃醇對皮膚有很強的刺激性和敏感性。塗抹過量並不會為你帶來更快或更好的效果——只會帶來更多刺激。」剛開始先使用0.25%至0.5%左右的非處方配方，每周一次，持續數周，直至皮膚適應為止。然後將使用次數增加到每周兩次、每周三次，最終目標是每天塗抹。
如果你不清楚每天（或每晚）應塗抹在臉上的視黃醇用量，Elizabeth Arden伊麗莎白雅頓可幫到你。品牌的Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum是一種奢華、輕盈且半透明的精華液，它將兩種最熱門的抗衰老成分結合在一個易於使用的膠囊中。此配方修護效果顯著，同時有助於預防視黃醇引起的乾燥和刺激，且膠囊包裝能確保你不會使用過量。
在皮膚適應活性成分的過程中，輕微的副作用（如脫皮、乾燥、泛紅和陽光敏感）乃屬正常現象。為幫助減輕肌膚刺激，皮膚科醫生、Saskatoon Dermatology Centre負責人兼醫療總監Kyle Cullingham醫生強調，在乾燥的冬季使用視黃醇後應塗上較滋潤的保濕面霜，而在潮濕的夏季則可使用較清爽的保濕乳液。由於許多視黃醇護膚品在陽光照射下會致敏，因此請務必使用SPF防曬係數至少為30的防曬霜。
如今市面上充斥著各種各樣含視黃醇的保濕面霜和精華液等，許多人都想知道該選擇哪一類型的護膚品才對。Yadav透露，除了處方級的凝膠外，非處方類中以精華液的效果最好。「精華類的護膚品濃度最高，而且在潔面後是最先塗抹在皮膚上的，而保濕面霜往往濃度較低，且是塗抹在精華液之上，因此更難滲透入皮膚，從而降低其效果。」
和維他命C一樣，視黃醇暴露在光和空氣中時會變得不穩定。雙重委員會認證皮膚科醫生和抗衰老醫學醫生Dusan Sajic建議，在購買視黃醇護膚品時，使用含有維他命E、阿魏酸或胜肽等穩定成分的產品，這些成分同時能滋潤和提亮皮膚。為了防止接觸到光和空氣，視黃醇護膚品應使用不透明和密封的容器包裝，例如Innisfree視黃醇積雪草保濕精華，這是一款較溫和的視黃醇，由維他命E、積雪草和菸鹼醯胺調配而成，可以舒緩肌膚，改善暗啞。
首次使用視黃醇和皮膚較敏感的人可能更喜歡緩釋視黃醇，例如Auteur Definitive視黃醇精華，它結合了膠囊化視黃醇和有舒緩作用的神經酰胺，可保護皮膚天然屏障。Yadav 和 Sajic 解釋，膠囊化的視黃醇可控制釋放活性物質的速度，能更緩慢地滲透肌膚，讓肌膚在吸收過程中慢慢適應。換言之，膠囊化視黃醇可減少肌膚刺激和乾燥感，從而帶來更舒適的使用者體驗。
儘管大多數皮膚類型都能耐受視黃醇，但那些有紅斑痤瘡、濕疹、嚴重痤瘡或敏感皮膚病史的人或會覺得它過度刺激，這類型人士或更適合使用視黃醇替代品。「假如你正打算去陽光明媚的地方度假，或在冬天時，視黃醇造成的皮膚乾燥令你感到困擾，又或者你正在備孕或目前正在懷孕，我會推薦如補骨脂酚（bakuchiol）一類視黃醇替代品。即便如此，你也應該先向你的婦產科醫生諮詢意見。」皮膚科醫生兼 DermCafé 聯合創辦人Annie Liu醫生建議。
雖然胜肽、壬二酸和補骨脂酚等護膚品（如 Byoma Moisturizing Rich Cream）因聲稱具備視黃醇的抗衰老功效但不會對肌膚造成刺激而大受歡迎，Cullingham提醒大家，使用這些成分時耐性是關鍵。「這是一場馬拉松而不是短跑，所以我建議先從0.5%至1% 的低濃度開始，然後逐漸增加至2%甚至更高的濃度。許多人會發現他們能夠耐受這種產品，而不會產生任何刺激或不適。」 雖然大多數人可在2至4周內看到視黃醇和補骨脂酚的護膚效果，但基本療程周期是12周或以上。
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