Heritage On The Plate: How Chef Alex Kim Blends Korean Tradition With West Coast Fine Dining

At the helm of Five Sails, one of Vancouver’s most iconic fine dining restaurants, Culinary Director Chef Alex Kim brings more than technical precision to the table—he brings heart. Rooted in his Korean upbringing and refined by his reverence for local Pacific Northwest ingredients, Chef Kim’s cuisine is a masterclass in balance: tradition meets innovation, east meets west, comfort meets elegance. In this Q&A, we explore how fermented Korean flavours find their way into sablefish and oyster tarts, why “jang” is his not-so-secret weapon, and how a simple bowl of scallion rice becomes unforgettable with a black cod glaze steeped in memory. —Noa Nichol

How has your Korean heritage influenced the fine dining experience you create at Five Sails?

At Five Sails, My Korean heritage is reflected in my commitment to using fresh, local ingredients, a principle rooted in my upbringing. My team and I collaborate closely with local farmers and fishermen, echoing the farm-to-table philosophy that I learned in Korea. The menus often celebrate Pacific Northwest ingredients but are crafted with a sensibility shaped by my culinary traditions, such as balance, respect for seasonality, and the use of fermentation.

What’s one traditional Korean flavour or ingredient you love introducing to guests in unexpected ways?

Fermented Korean Sauces “Jang Trio”  Such as soybean paste(Doen jang), soy sauce(Gan Jang) and red chili paste(Gochu Jang). For Five Sails’ seasonal tasting menu we often use “Jang” to add depth and complexity to dishes like Poached Oyster tart, Roasted Sablefish and Sea urchin Farrotto etc. This use of “Jang” nods to my Korean heritage while blending seamlessly with Pacific Northwest seafood, creating a unique and pleasantly unexpected dining experience. 

How do you balance innovation and authenticity when incorporating Asian influences into your menu?

I focus on using local, seasonal Canadian ingredients as the foundation, ensuring authenticity through respect for both the ingredient and the culinary traditions. Innovation comes from reimagining classic Asian cooking traditions, -in new forms and pairing them with West Coast seafood or European techniques Ie) Fermenting vegetables or fruits like the way my grandma taught me to extract the super flavourful juice and add it to my espuma (aerated and foamy sauce) to pair with fresh seafood from BC

Could you share a favourite Asian-inspired recipe that readers can try making at home?

Marinaded Black Cod on scallion rice (3 portions)

• 9 pcs of Haida Gwaii Black Cod Fillet, 2oz portions, skin-off
• 2 cups of short-grain rice, rinsed 2times and cooked in a rice cooker
• Sesame oil as needed
• Chopped scallions, as needed

Marinade 

• Water 140g
• Ginger, peeled and chopped 7g
• Garlic, peeled and chopped 4g
• Scallion, green parts only 35g
• Maple Syrup 125g 
• Rice vinegar 20g 
• Korean Doen Jang, Finely prepared (or less chunky) 80g 
• Soy sauce (Korean Ganjang) 130g 
• Korean Rice Wine (or Japanese Sake) 150g 

Put everything into a sauce pot, simmer for 15minutes on a low heat, fully cool down before using it. Once fully cooled, add it to the black cod portions, marinate overnight. To make the glaze, Reserve 100ml or the marinade, add into a small pot, reduce down by 50%. Pre-heat the oven at 400F, place the fish on a lined(parchment paper) sheet pan, roast the fish for 7-10minutes or until it’s fully cooked, brush the glaze over the fish (you can lightly torch the fish to add some charred flavour). Prepare a warm bowl of Rice, place the roasted fish over the rice, sprinkle some finely chopped scallion and add a drizzle of sesame oil.