From Grandma’s Kitchen to Granville Island: Chef Darren Szeto Serves Up Heritage and Heart at The Sandbar

In celebration of Asian Heritage Month, we’re spotlighting Executive Chef Darren Szeto of The Sandbar—a second-generation Chinese Canadian whose culinary creations are inspired by the flavours and traditions passed down from his grandmother. In this exclusive Q&A, Szeto shares how his upbringing shaped his work ethic and creativity in the kitchen, the humble ingredient he loves most, and a spicy Manilla clam recipe straight from his special menu to yours. —Noa Nichol

How do you weave elements of your Chinese heritage into a menu that celebrates West Coast seafood?

Here at Sandbar, what I try to do for creating new items or running specials is what I can remember my grandma use to make growing up. My grandparents would invite her children and have major feasts to celebrate whatever occasion or Chinese holidays. How I try to incorporate into the specials is just by remembering her flavours and trying out her techniques but also from what I’ve learned in my experiences

What’s one ingredient or technique from traditional Chinese cooking that you think more chefs should explore?

One ingredient that I like to use quite often is the manilla clams. It’s not fancy like mussels or lobster or prawns but you get the sweet flavour from the meat and get it’s natural flavour after cooking. 

What does Asian Heritage Month mean to you, both personally and professionally?

As a second generation Chinese Canadian, I’m very proud of my heritage. Being the son of immigrant parents who owned a small restaurant on Dunbar and having to grow up in the restaurant was fun. I remember how hard my parents worked every single day. Now that I look back at it, I realize how much they had to sacrifice to support their 4 children. One of the main characteristics that I gained from them was their strong work ethic, keep on striving, be better for yourself and for your family. Being Asian, I knew I had to work harder, I needed to learn quicker, move faster, keep pushing myself. I believe those things have got me to this position of being the executive chef here at Sandbar. 

Could you share a favourite Asian-inspired recipe that readers can try making at home?

One special that we do once in a while is the spicy manilla clams. We do 1lb of manilla clams sauteed with some garlic, ginger, chili garlic sauce, and sliced onions. The spicy hoisin sauce is added which has hoi sin, sweet soy, soy, chili garlic and rice vinegar. 

Spicy Hoisin Sauce

• 100 ml hoisin sauce
• 50 rice wine vinegar
• 2 table spoons of chili garlic sauce
• 100 ml of ABC sweet soy or Kecap Manis
• 50 ml of soy sauce or tamari

Mix all ingredients and put into a container for future use

Spicy Clams

1. Thinly cut green onions and red pepper and rinse under icy cold water so it can curl up for garnish. Rip some cilantro from the stem and wash. Reserve all for garnish
2. Take a wok and heat up. Once hot, pour some oil and toss 10 grams garlic, 5 grams ginger, and  1 table spoon of chili garlic and continue to saute to release aromatics. 
3. After put the cleaned 1lb of manilla clams and continue to toss. After about 30 seconds of mixing all the ingredients, add 1/2 water to steam the clams to open them up
4. When clams begin to open up, mix in the 1/2 cup of spicy hoisin sauce and mix for another minute for the sauce to infuse into the clams and to fully open the them.
5. Place the clams in a bowl or whichever pot you have and garnish with the green onion and red pepper curls and the cilantro. Enjoy!